Friday, November 5, 2010

Roaming around Kassel

This is a post I started back in July that continued the story of our spring break adventures.  After spending a week with the Herths in southern Germany, we took the train up to Kassel and met up with Annelie for a Waldorf teachers conference on the 11th grade...

Although the conference days were packed with seminars and classes, there was still time to explore the city of Kassel.  One day after lunch Mike and I took the 10 minute walk from the Waldorf school to the Bergpark Wilhelmshöhe, a 590 acre park built on a mountain slope.  The park includes a castle; an English garden; an artificial ruin called Löwenburg (Lions Castle); a Roman aqueduct; and a water garden of beautiful ponds, fountains, waterfalls, and bridges.  At the top of the mountain stands the Hercules Monument which has Hercules posing on top of the Octagon and Cascades.

The entire park was astoundingly beautiful.


The Elector of Hesse, William I had planned for the entire park to be overrun with artificial waterfalls and cascades.


Here the Wilhelmshöhe Schloss (used as an art museum today ) is peeking through the trees.


More beauty.


Neat architecture.


A view of the castle from higher up the mountain.


And here, even further up (can you imagine the workout we were getting?).


Interesting horticulture.


The Bergpark is open free to the public, so citizens of Kassel take their dogs on walks here, go for a stroll with their friends, or do their daily jogging in the gorgeous surroundings every day.

The Devil's Bridge.


The entire park was very peaceful and calming. 


Here is a view of Hercules in all of his glory.  Our first thought upon seeing the monument was, "Just our luck.  Construction and renovations."


Here you can see the very base of the Octogon.  The size of the entire structure is beyond impressive.


Neptune hiding out in his cool lair in the background.


Then up the stairs we went...


There was a long way to go.


The first landing on the Octagon and Cascades had statues of more gods, mythical creatures, and beautifully decorated benches.

 

Another view of Hercules.


Normally the cascades are running with water.  We'd love to go back to see that some day.


An incredible bird's-eye-view of Kassel.



Encountering more construction.


Pan peeking through the mayhem.


We're sweaty and tired, but high above Kassel!


Incredible view.




Finally we are as close to Hercules as we can get .


A closer look at the architecture of the base.


Information on the original building of the monument and the construction.


There was supposed to have been a bus that could have taken us all the way back down, but we couldn't seem to find a schedule or a bus stop for it.  Needing to get back to the seminar, we traced our hike all the way back.  Going down did not take nearly as long as going up.  We passed the Löwenburg ruins on the way.  It was tempting to stop and take pictures, but we had to save it for another day.

Sunday, October 31, 2010

Happy Halloween!

Aaaaaaand, we're back!

After a three month hiatus there are about fifty billion things to blog about.  Instead of trying to continue chronologically and play catch-up, we're going to pick up right here in present time.  Of course there will be posts about past events -- the rest of our travels and adventures in Germany, summer back in Minnesota, both of us gaining employment, and (of course) the wedding -- I am giving myself permission to jump around in time. 

For now, we are settling into our new home in the south-western Twin Cities.  Today was the first day that both Mike and I could be home together for the entire day, so after sleeping in we enjoyed ourselves with a hearty brunch and prepared for the trick-or-treaters that we hoped would come to our door at dusk.

Here's the pumpkin we picked out earlier this week.


Mike did all of the knife work.


Pumpkin guts.  Mmmm...

Mike dressed up as a baker selling "hot cross buns" for Halloween at school.  He's carving the pumpkin in his costume (in case you were wondering why he's wearing that hat).

Meanwhile, I cleaned the guts off of the pumpkin seeds for toasting later.


The finished product!  Now presenting:  Mike's Jackal Lantern


It was an excellent jack-o-lantern and (as you will see below) even more excellent when lit up.  However, in the entire night, only two kids came and rang our doorbell.  As a result, we now have two giant bags of leftover candy, and I know there is about a pound of candy corn and butter cream pumpkins that I left behind at school.  So it is.  We still had an excellent first Halloween together in the states.

Friday, July 23, 2010

Welcome to Waldorf: Kassel Edition

At the end of March/beginning of April about 200 teachers from 24 different countries around the world met in Kassel, Germany for the second annual International Refresher Course Week, a conference for upper school teachers in Waldorf schools.  The focus of the 2010 conference was class 11. The courses offered for the week covered all subjects that eleventh grade Waldorf students take -- math, science, art, history, English, and even music.  This was a perfect fit for us since both Mike and I had both music and English classes in the upper grades.  I, in particular, had the 11th graders for English.

Annelie had gone to the conference last year and had been raving about the event since October.  She was especially excited because Peter Lutzker, one of the main presenters at the conference, was also teaching the two English courses being offered during the week.  Peter, originally from New York, has been teaching English in Germany for about 25 years.  He has authored many books (which Annelie had recommended to us when we dove into this job last August) and also co-founded English Week in Germany, an event which Annelie and most Waldorf English teachers adore.

Our train arrived at the Kassel-Wilhelmshöhe station before Annelie's train made it from Wolfsburg.  It became apparent as we got closer to Kassel that north-central German's weather had been quite different from the warm spring climate we'd been luxuriating in for the past week.  It was absolutely shocking to look out at the passing landscape on the train and see snow on the ground.  We were not expecting to have to go back to our winter coats.  Coming from the south we had no travel problems, but hopping off the train we quickly learned that things were not so nice from Kassel on up.  The boards showed that trains from Berlin were delayed by two hours.  When Annelie finally joined us at the station she shared horror stories of first getting to the Wolfsburg Hauptbahnhof in the snow and then the travel by train. 

Fortunately our hotel was not too far away and it didn't take us long to get there and get unpacked.  Getting up to the school from the hotel for the first time, however, was another matter.  We had free city-wide transportation passes from the hotel so we could take the tram system up the giant winding hill up to the school, but we accidentally hopped the wrong tram in our hurry to get to the check-in site and ended up having to trek up-hill in the rain for twenty minutes.  Fortunately we arrived with time to even catch a simple supper of bread, cheese, and fresh-cut vegetables between getting signed in and hearing the welcome speech and the opening lectures for the week:  teaching the concept of infinity to 11th graders and teaching history beginning with the year 1000.

The conference was held at the Waldorf School of Kassel, which had expansive grounds and many big buildings.  The first thing you notice when you step onto school property is the sound of running water.  The school has a lovely brook running through the campus.


The school grounds evoked a distinct Waldorf feel -- the shapes of the buildings were less rectangular and regular and nature was very present.  We crossed this bridge to get to our classes every day.


Over the week Mike and I attended only a few lectures outside of our subjects of English and music.  We had a set schedule that was more-or-less the same each day:  teaching Shakespeare with Peter Lutzer first thing in the morning; coffee break; large-group lecture; coffee break; general music ideas; lunch and mid-day pause; "Poetry and Drama in Performance" with Lutzer again where we worked on and acted out scenes from Shakespeare (or poetry in some cases); coffee; and other seminars that went late into the evening.  The conference was set up so that participants attended the same seminars or classes all week.

Mike and I really enjoyed Peter's seminars.  First of all, it was absolutely delightful to hear someone speak English in a non-British or European accent -- even if he is from New York.  Besides being an all-around nice guy (who's first degree was actually music performance for french horn), he is a great teacher with good ideas.  In the morning seminar he basically led us through a year of 11th grade English in five days and every day we did things that the students would do in class -- creative writing exercises, reading, answering (after formulating) review and homework questions, and eventually -- the climax of 11th grade -- working on Shakespeare.  I definitely used some of his ideas and papers when I did a very short unit on Shakespeare and his A Midsummer Night's Dream with my 11th graders at the end of the school year.

Peter's afternoon seminar was really an exercise in drama.  There is no better way to get to know Shakespeare than to use the material the way it was meant to be used.  So after learning various warm-ups for acting/performing, we divided up into groups and were assigned a scene to work on for the week and present on the final day.  Mike and I ended up in the same group and were assigned the play Pericles, a lesser known tragedy of which he wrote the last three of five acts.  Mike took the role of King Pericles who, after countless tragedies, succumbed to silence and depression.  I played his long-lost daughter, who everyone believed dead.  A fellow teacher from Estonia, Triin, played the king's most trusted adviser and friend.  Our scene was the very end of the play where the king slowly realizes that his daughter is sitting in front of him and speaks for the first time in years.  It was very strange working on and presenting this scene since I am not one who likes public speaking, much less acting.  At the same time, both of us definitely stretched ourselves and gained a lot from the experience. 

The other seminars and lectures were a bit hit and miss.  For example, the music one was interesting, but it was actually geared towards younger children.  It also focused more on experiencing musical effects and sounds rather than concrete ideas in music.  Many of the large group lectures were science and math centered so we skipped those.  We did attend a few history lectures which were at times good and at others a little too... long-winded and circular in nature.

If we weren't too exhausted after our seminars we spent the evenings hanging out with Annelie and the teachers she'd met at previous conferences.  The first night, for example, we met up with a small group of teachers from Norway who taught subjects ranging from English and literature to mathematics and biology. 


Fortunately for us, all the Norwegians had fantastic English.  Later in the week we met the entire group of Norwegian teachers.  An older gentleman teacher came and joined our group later and began a conversation in German with Mike.  After a few minutes of confusion Mike asked if he knew English and the response was, "Of course I can speak English!" (Unfortunately, the jovial indignation in his intonation cannot be captured here.  Suffice it to say, it was hilarious.  -M)
Probably the most hilarious evening was that before the day of our drama performances with the following exchanges between Mike and Petruchio (I can't remember his real name, but he and Annelie's scene in the Drama workshop was from The Taming of the Shrew) when Mike found a little bug in his wine.

Mike:  Oh no!  There's a bug in my wine!  (Mike fishes him out onto a napkin) ...And he's still alive!  He's drunk!

Petruchio:  Oh, that's Gus!  He's the house mascot.

 And later...

P:  You didn't kill Gus, did you?

M:  No, I released him.

P:  Oh, good -- because you're friends now.  At least Gus thinks so.

Isn't it nice that Mike knows how to make friends in every corner of the world?

Tuesday, June 29, 2010

A Change of Scenery

With the end of the school year and getting ready to move back to the US, life has been more than just a little bit crazy.  Blog posts about our trips and living in Germany will resume after a [hopefully] brief pause. 

Flowers from the school to us on the last day of school.

Monday, June 21, 2010

Heidelberg and Farewell to the Rhine Valley

After a full week of traveling with the Herths and being given an exceptional look into the lifestyle and cultural offerings of the Rhine Valley, our vacation had to come to an end.  It was time for them to finish up their family get-togethers and for us to head back up north for a week-long Waldorf teachers' conference about teaching eleventh grade.  That particular day the Herths were having dinner with family further south, so we had planned in advance for Mike and me to catch the train from Heidelberg. 

Heidelberg is Jo's other most favorite German city.  Situated close to his hometown, some of Jo's fondest university memories come from here.  The University of Heidelberg was founded in 1386 and has the prestige of being one of Europe's oldest educational institutions.  Because Heidelberg itself is not a very large city, the university students actually make up about one-fifth of the population. 

We arrived in Heidelberg mid-morning, which gave us just a few hours to poke around before our scheduled train departure.  After having brunch on the outskirts of town, we took the tram up to the Altstadt for some quick historic sights.

Jo made sure we saw this view of beautiful houses along the Neckar River from the tram.


Once in the Altstadt our first stop was the Heiliggeistekirche or Church of the Holy Spirit. 

 

The interior:


The vault keystone:


The Heiliggeistkirche possesses some modern-looking and controversial stained glass windows.


 

This last window, called Physics, was designed by German artist Johannes Schreiter.  It was his response to the atomic bomb and includes Einstein's famous E = mc2 equation, two New Testament verses, and the date that the bomb was dropped on Hiroshima.  It was the only window in Schreiter's cycle that, after much contention, was installed in the church. 


The square just behind the church is called Marktplatz.  I love the fleece blankets the restaurants include with their outdoor patio furniture.  Unfortunately, the atmosphere in this square was not always so nice.  In the past Marktplatz was the site of executions and the burning of witches and heretics.


The Haus zum Ritter (the house of the knight) was built in 1592 and has survived all of the wars from back then to present day.


The quaint streets of Heidelberg's old city.

 

Me posing with the Heidelberg backdrop.


Up to this point, Heidelberg was probably the most touristy city we'd visited.  There were stores aimed at tourists everywhere.

 

Apparently they also get a lot of visitors from Japan.  The Japanese language definitely rivaled English on the signs and even the store names in the city.  I decided to take a picture of of one of these massive groups of Japanese (this group happened to be entirely elderly women) with the pretense of taking a picture of handsome Mike.


The Altstadt had lots of little squares where they held markets.  This particular one had a unique fountain in the middle.


Many also had a lovely view of the Heidelberg Castle.


A closer view:


The Heidelberg Castle was first built in the 13th century.  Vast and beautiful, it was once a well-fortified Gothic castle, but despite various attempts of rebuilding, is now mostly in ruins due to destruction from the wars (going all the way back to the Thirty Years War, The War of Succession, etc)... and being struck by lightning.  Sadly, we didn't have time go look around.  We were going to take the special train up to take a quick peek, but that was closed for construction work.

Instead, we walked to the Alte Brüke, a impressively large bridge over the Neckar River that was built in the late 1700's and got another nice view of the castle.


Mike on the bridge posing in front of the medieval city gate with storm clouds looming overhead.


The famous monkey statute from the city side of the gate.


Views of the Neckar.



Just as we started heading back into the city for the next bus towards the train station, it began to pour.  We were fortunate that the rain held off until the end of our Heidelberg experience.  It was too bad that we were only around long enough to get a few impressions, but we certainly enjoyed what we saw.

Jo, Annette, and Benjamin said goodbye and we soon settled into our two and a half hour train ride up to Kassel where we were meeting Annelie for another intensive week.